Quality: | + | + | + | - | - | (3 out of 5) |
Functionality: | + | + | - | - | - | (2 out of 5) |
Appearance: | + | + | - | - | - | (2 out of 5) |
Value: | + | + | + | - | - | (3 out of 5) |
Overall: | + | + | - | - | - | (2 out of 5) |
Pros: |
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Cons: |
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Introduction
The stock grips on most sportbikes are notoriously hard and slippery. The manufacturer of your particular model may be dealing with vibration issues in the 8,000 - 10,000 RPM range for a third straight year, but unfortunately, you don't get a free upgrade when (if!) they finally address the problem. Stock grips don't do much to insulate you from the idiosyncratic oscillations of all those moving parts underneath you. Aftermarket grips are often an inexpensive way to incrementally improve ergonomics and put some distance between your hands and your drive train.
I decided to replace the stock grips on my 2005 R6 with a pair of Renthal medium-compound Road Race grips. My decision was based partly on my noticing that (soft-compound) Renthals were used on the Graves Motorsports bikes (and I figured Graves and Jamie Hacking knew what they were doing). I opted for the medium compound in the hopes that they would hold up a little better (I wasn't interested in replacing them after every track day).
Impression
The grips were a little thinner than the stock ones on my R6. The diamond grip looked...well...grippy. There's nothing that really stood out about Renthal's Road Race grips, and I liked that. I didn't care if they were cute or if they had three-color, multi-compound inlays; I just wanted them to work.
Yup, it's a grip:
Installation
The hardest part of installing aftermarket grips is getting the stock ones off. They are usually glued on by a professional gluer who more often than not really knows what he or she is doing. I find the best results for stock grip removal usually come from an iterative use of a small flat-head screwdriver, and air compressor (optional, but very helpful), some silicone spray and a lot of elbow grease.
First, I slip the screwdriver underneath stock grip and try to pry the rubber away from the bar (or throttle). I'll sweep around and around until I get about 0.5" in all the way around. Then I will use compressed air to try to separate the grip further. Between attempts with the air, I'll shove the straw from my silicone spray as far in as I can and apply a liberal amount of the spray. Then I wrench the grip back and forth with my hands to see how much of the glue I can break loose. I keep repeating this until I can pull the grip off. The silicone is a necessity (for me anyway), since it eliminates me fighting with the natural friction between the rubber and the bar and makes it easier to apply my efforts solely to the glue. bigpuss says that in a pinch, you can use WD-40 instead of silicone spray, but I find that silicone spray is easier to clean off if you ever intend to use the grips again (you do not want them to be lubed with anything that won't evaporate quickly when they go on).
I should mention that whenever I put grips on, I don't use grip glue. I find that if I clean the inner portion of the grip and use some isopropyl (rubbing alcohol) as temporary lubricant to get them into position, safety wire and the grips' natural friction is plenty to keep them from moving around. Your mileage may vary however.
The packaging is a little more exciting:
Use
Right away I was impressed by the control. These grips were definitely a lot grippier than stock and I didn't have to squeeze nearly as much to be able to twist the throttle.
Almost immediately thereafter, however, I noticed an odd buzzing sensation in my fingers and hands. After about an hour on the rode, my hands were numb (which was unusual for me). The '05 R6 tended to exhibit some "interesting" vibrations inside of certain RPM ranges. Unfortunately, these seemed to be where I spent most of my time on the road. This may have been exaggerated by the fact that I had replaced my stock bar end weights with aftermarket Delron ones (which weight far less).
On the track I hardly noticed the vibration at all, but I was only out for (at most) 20 minutes at a time. I wouldn't be able to guarantee I would be as happy after 45 minutes.
I had an...uh...opportunity to see how they held up in a crash when I low-sided at Willow Springs and I have to say these are pretty delicate in the face of adversity in the form of tarmac and gravel. The crash-side grip was torn away from the throttle which was doubly impressive considering the end of the bar was protected by my bar ends. All I can say is that when you crash, everything seems to come in contact with dirt and rocks in one way or another.
Conclusion
I can't say I'd get these again. While they certainly improved my grip, they put me a little too close to my engine vibrations for my tastes. That might be improved by moving to the softer compound, but I'm fearful that those will hold up even less well. For now, I'll keep looking for something better.
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